More Wind, and Finally a Break

by / Friday, 17 April 2009 / Published in Russ Faurot

This has been an extremely windy spring.  It has been blowing non-stop for about a month now.  We are finally getting a short break, which is actually nice, because it is giving me a chance to wax up the old surfboard.  There is a decent swell running right now so tomorrow ought to be a good surfing day.  I managed to get out today for a surf after work, but only had about 40 minutes of daylight left.  I still was able to make the long paddle (about 15 minutes) out and catch one good wave.  It was pretty big, coming in at a couple feet overhead.  Nothing spectacular, but quite fun.

These shots were taken by Steve Hamman at Kuau.  The first two shots of the same wave, show a decent set that appeared to suck below sea level.  In the last shot, I am coming in for a landing in the white water after a small air off the wave.





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