Before the Tsunami
This morning I was woken up on Maui’s North Shore with sirens blaring at 6AM. I checked the news and it said there was a Tsunami on the way, generated by a massive earthquake in Chile measuring 8.8 on the Richter scale. Thankfully, the Tidal Waves were rather small, and nothing serious came of it on the Hawaiian islands.
Yesterday, I rode giant waves that were much bigger than the Tsunami. My estimate from the biggest one that I caught would be double mast high! Conditions were very difficult with the wind blowing nearly straight offshore, and most of the waves were closing out across the reef. I was lucky to get out and catch a few before I got cleaned up by a big set. I had a long swim for my gear while I ducked mast high white water. Fortunately when I tracked my gear down, it was unscathed. I was pretty tired, but I wanted to catch one more. I tried and tried for about 30 minutes to get back out doing chicken jibe after chicken jibe, when the waves finally opened up to let me through.
Giampaolo stopped by and took a couple pictures of my efforts. You can check out all of his shots on his blog at www.mauisurfreport.blogspot.com. Check ’em out and see the size waves we were out in. I was glad to return to the beach without any broken pieces, myself or my gear. Not everyone was so lucky. My friend Art broke a mast and tore his sail, but he made it back in safely. That was one crazy session.
Thanks again Giampaolo for taking these shots.