Storm Surf

by / Tuesday, 03 March 2009 / Published in Russ Faurot
Well, the last month has seen some interesting conditions here on Maui.  There has been a fair amount of sailing, but the conditions have been a little tricky.  Recently we have had some big waves, but they have been very short period swell.  It was something like 15 feet 10 seconds.  That makes if very hard to break through the surf when you keep getting beaten back by the white water.
Today, I got to the beach and people were swimming in.  A huge rain filled squall came through and killed the wind, but I waited for about an hour and it really turned on.  I rigged 4.7, but easily could have been on a 4.2.  It was full power the whole time, and logo to mast high waves breaking across the reef.  I had some insane jumps and wave rides, mixed in with some wild wipe outs.  One wipe out in particular, came when I went for a huge pushloop.  I threw it too hard, and had to bail near the top of my jump.  I would guess that I free-fell, from about 25 feet, straight to my back.  If it weren’t for the wetsuit I was wearing, I am sure the sore spot would be much larger.  Today was a blast, but very challenging conditions.
I just got a brand new board so I couldn’t wait to get on the water today.  It was perfect for today, 67L and a single fin.   Check out the board after one day’s use.
Thanks, for the photo of a Kuau wave, goes to Steve Hamman.
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One Response to “Storm Surf”

  1. Chris King says : Reply

    Nice entry Russ, your blog is so compelling! That bailout must have been sick! Keep charging. Go big or go home!

    Chris

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